Recent progress

What better time than Christmas day to spend updating the website! :) Work has been slow again recently, but some major work has been undertaken. The existing front scuttle panel (under the windscreen) was covered in filler, and when that was taken off, several rather crusty areas were exposed. I decided it was going to be easiest to replace the whole panel. I cut in along each side and unpicked the spot welds along the window frame. I then did the same on my other bodyshell, which was in much better condition in this area. Then it welded in it. It worked really well, and there were no tricky areas.

The next big job was the removable rear valance. Again my other bodyshell was in better condition in this area, so that's what I used. I want the whole back to be removable, from the firewall backwards. This will allow for maximum engine access.

The valance will be attached at the top with two bolts, then the side panels will bolt together, and more bolts at the bottom. More detail in that to follow. You can see on one of the images the repair I had to make under the vent above the wheel arch. This will be covered with filler.

Oh, and Merry Christmas!

Kafer-cup brace clearancing

I have replaced the right inner wheel arch body to chassis mount panel. In order for the kafer-cup brace to clear this panel I had to cut a bit of it out. I hope this doesn't weaken this area too much?


I have been very busy welding up the body shell. I have replaced a lot of old, thin and rusty metal with good metal, and its been quite a journey. With the help of my friend Jason, we replaced both heater channels. Having someone experienced help you with these things makes a massive difference, and he was able to get both channels in pretty quickly and accuratly. The door gaps are spot on and we had no major problems. Then it was just a case of finishing everything else off. I am not there yet, with plenty more welding required, but I have probobly done around 80% of the welding.

I have my welder set up now, so it welds well every time, even with C02 gas. I have found one of the things that influences how well a panel goes in is the ammount of preparation that you put into the panel first. If it fits well, and is clean, it will go in nicely. I have tried to use weld-through zinc primer where ever possible so hold off the rust as long as possible.

Anyway, pictures tell a thousand words, so here they are..

Once I have done all the welding I can with the car in its current position, I will need to lift it up of its chassis, and be placed on some stands. This will allow me to get under it and finish of the underside.

Body Shell Shenanigans

I have sourced another bodyshell to replace my white one (thanks guys)!

I made this decision because my white shell had been rolled in the past (not by me!), and had some accident damage to the right roof seam, and right rear quarter. This red shell needs the same work as the white shell, without the roof and rear quarter damage. The work its going to need is as follows:
  • Heater channels
  • Front lower bulkhead
  • Rear inner arches
  • Rear valence
  • Some minor repairs to front strut towers


As you can see above I have cut out the right heater channel. It was very easy, because there wasn't much of it left! Unfortunatly my grinder gave up the ghost on me, so I am currently waiting for a replacement. I also got myself an airpowered hacksaw, cause I am lazy.. :)

I think my calipers foxed the guys at PorscheTech because they turned out to be rear calipers. Thanks to Mikey at, who correctly identified them as rear calipers from a 95-98 Porsche 993 (911). I got the relevent rotors for this caliper, and they fit perfectly, and also come cross-drilled as standard (yum). I will use these as a template for drilling my rear disks too.

I also cleaned up my gearbox, as it was pretty grubby. I couldn't move it around the garage without putting a bio-hazard suit on! So I removed all the corrosion, dirt and oil using a variety of wire wheels in my drill and grinder. I then sprayed it with Por Metal Ready to neutralise any remaining corrosion. It was then given a coat of zinc primer, followed by normal primer, then finished with a topcoat of matt black paint. Looks nice eh? This is a twin sideplate AT box, which replaced my 1300 box quite a few years ago. I need to replace the drive flange seals really, as it leaks a little.


Bit of eye candy for you! Purchased last year, this neat shifter comes from CAE-Automobiltechnik. Can't wait to bolt this in.


In order to complete my front brakes, I need to get some rotors that would fit my calipers. As I don't know what they are from (and there are no part numbers on them), I headed down to PorscheTech in Bedminster, Bristol. The guys down there were very helpful and identified the calipers as belonging to a 944S2 or 968. With this information I could determine their part numbers, and what rotors they need. The caliper part numbers are 951 351 421 03 and 951 351 421 03, and the rotors are 951 351 041 02. These rotors are 298x28 in size, which sounds right for the calipers.

All I need to get now are the hubs.


After getting the chassis back from the blasters I spent a manic few days working on the chassis. One of the main things I wanted to do was put a large chamber behind the drivers seat suitable for housing an exhaust silencer. As I had to cut the battery tray out anyway as it was rusty, I thought this would be quite neat. Although there will be an anti-roll bar in the way, if I can get round this, it would allow me to bring the whole exhaust system forward of the engine. If not I am sure I can use it for something else, like an oil cooler or something.


The fact that I only needed to replace the battery tray, and a small area at the rear of the floorpan on the other side, just goes to show what amazing condition this chassis is. Nothing suggests that these floorpans are not the original ones, and for a 1303, this is just incredible. Pity the body is not in such good condition!

So next was the paint. For this task I used POR15, which I had heard great things about. I made sure I covered up well, because once its on your skin it just doesn't come off, it really just stains the skin. It was a very thick paint and went on very well. Time will tell though as to how good it really is. I am not sure if I would use it again. It took me much longer that I expected to do the welding, and in that time it started to rust a little (not that that should bother POR15). If I were to do it again I would probably have just covered it in zinc primer, done the welding, then painted it with black 2-pack.

Now its all black and shiny I can start plumbing in brake and fuel lines. I am putting in two new fuel lines, one main and one return line, for future fuel injection. I will just use one for now. The following picture just show one, but the other is now next to it. Both brake and fuel lines are kunifer which is a copper nickel alloy. This is much stronger than pure copper, and doesn't harden with vibration.


I have borrowed a flatbed trailer from a friend in order to take the chassis to the shot blasters. I had to rebuild the brakes, and swap the tyres in order to use it. However I will need it all year, so its a fair trade. :)

VZI Calendar

My Volkszone Calender was waiting for me when I got home after a recent holiday. It was created to help aid the Brad's Cancer Foundation, and features the girls and VWs of Volkszone. The girls and dubs look fantastic, and they are such good sports. If you haven't got yours get, please purchase one Well done all those involved in its creation.